I dare to say I know my Asian food and don’t mind travelling to get my fix. Normally, I would choose to venture out to Sydney’s west and not northshore for somewhat authentic Asian cuisine and definately stir away from dining at any shopping centres. Surprisingly, I must say that the trek out to New Shanghai at Chatswood Chase in Sydney’s north on Sunday was all worthwhile.

Forget about cheap décor, rude service, fluorescent lights and chop-sticks fights with the person sitting right next to you although the lines are long outside – there is a buzzing feel inside in a dark, indulging and beautiful space at New Shanghai located at the shopping centre’s lower ground.

Having both travelled to Shanghai and in Sydney, discovered the flagship restaurant in Ashfield, I was intrigued about the newest of three locations said to have 1930’s-inspired interior by Giant Design and custom-made furniture from China.

The interior design is based on the idea of a longtang (street or alleyway) to transport diners to the place where this style of food would typically be served in Shanghai. Representing a cultural mix of east meets west, this Longtang theme harks back to the vibrant culinary culture in which New Shanghai owner John Chen grew up around.

Rustic cobblestoned floors evoke a street feel, while red flags and traditional Shanghai artworks are used to recreate the life and pulse of the longtang. Wooden doors at the back of the restaurant indicate an entrance into someone’s home – which would typically flank a Shanghai longtang. Hanging windows give the illusion of height, recognising that the usual dwellings are 3-4 stories high. A live dumpling theatre allows diners a sneak peek into the action, and helps add to a sense of the drama and anticipation. A bicycle, baskets, Shanghai retro posters and umbrellas add to the kaleidoscope of colour and movement reminiscent of the street scene. It is a lovely concept to bring to Sydney!

To be honest, I did not have many expectations of the food but was pleasantly surprised to find a rich assortment of modern classical Shanghai-style cuisine. The dishes are refined to bring out the vibrant array of tasty Shanghai-style soups, noodles, rice and vegetable dishes – some fused with a modern twist and beautifully presented on nice cutlery. I also love the cute tea sets.

Among the cold dishes, the shredded jellyfish and radish tossed with sea salt and light soy dressing was a refreshing appetiser but our highlights were no doubt the Xiao Long Bao (mini steamed pork bun) dumpling with a delicate, translucent skin sealing a flavour-some gingery-sweet broth and a juicy pocket of pork – watch out from any burns by poking a hole to let the broth flow out onto your spoon first!

The pork filling is a family secret recipe of the bursting flavour is drawn from owner John Chen’s childhood. I would also believe the final result is equally pending on the technique by the person making them. After trialling these numerous times at other restaurants before, this had the best flavour and consistency by far. The Pan Fried Pork Buns are also must-eats with their springy soft dough, crispy golden brown bottoms and juicy fillings. The special technique used to cook these is another family secret; an ancient recipe passed down from generation to generation. While some of the mains from the kitchen might be a hit or miss, you can’t really go wrong with any of the dumplings.

The Pork Belly which has been braised overnight in sweet soy sauce is also a characteristic of the New Shanghai menu. If you like savoury food, the deep friend blue swimmer crab with salted egg yolk may satisfy your taste buds but be warned – it is a very salty dish with an acquired taste that my not please everyone.

For dessert, you can balance back your Yin & Yang with warm classic Chinese desserts such as the Sesame paste dumplings in Chinese dessert rice wine soup or cold Green bean paste topped with ice cream and shaved ice.

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Photos of New Shanghai interior and dishes

Psst… I also have news that owner John Chen is opening up a new restaurant in Charlestown (Newcastle) shortly, with the theme of ‘country garden’. Check out the projected images of what the new restaurant will look like below.

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